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Getty Research Institute collection of materials relating to Robert Heinecken's...wore khakis project, 1994-2000

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Heinecken (Robert) materials, Getty Research Institute collection
Series I. Revised Magazine: Gap/NY Headaches (Accession number 2017.M.30), between 1994 and 1999 1.1 Linear Feet (1 box)
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One of five unique copies, Robert Heinecken's Revised magazine: GAP/NY headaches, represents the first state of the artist's multifaceted, five-year project centered on the GAP's 1990s khaki pants advertising campaign. Heinecken dissects, with the deft precision of his X-acto knife, the narrative proffered in the advertisements, which feature vintage photographs of celebrities wearing khaki pants and bear the slogan "[famous name] wore khakis." By cutting through 28 of the advertisements and binding them together to reveal numerous layers of famous people wearing khakis, Heinecken twists the ad campaign's implied intimacy between celebrity and consumer. In doing so the viewer no longer simply shares a connective moment with, for example, Allen Ginsberg sitting cross-legged with his hands folded in his lap, since the part of Ginsberg's shirt showing inside his suit jacket has been cut away to create the appearance that Jack Kerouac, whose image is on the following page, is sitting in Ginsberg's lap; nor with Pablo Picasso seated in his studio, where the cutout makes him appear to be bemusedly holding a small, standing Amelia Earhart in his hands. Rather, within these layered relationships the viewer is left to reconsider one's real and suggested connections to both the individual celebrities depicted, and to a vast, uniformly khaki-clad population.
In this first iteration of the project the photocopied GAP advertisements have other unrelated fashion advertisements and magazine images pasted to their versos. The GAP Khakis logo remains untouched on the bottom corner of the pages, but the slogan "[famous name] wore khakis" is infrequently, and often only partially, present. In some instances Heinecken has experimented with collage, as seen in the image of Humphrey Bogart standing on the deck of a boat where he has given Bogart three bobbing heads, two pairs of legs and three outstretched arms, so that he seems to be moving towards Carole Lombard, who is standing with her hands in her pockets on the next page.
The magazine is bound in a reproduced cover of New York magazine for 21 February 1994 with the mailing label addressed to Heinecken present in the lower left corner, and featuring a cover story about infant AIDS treatment, along with a running banner along the top edge reading: What the Trumps want / Condé Nast's newest dame. The back cover is a collage of two advertisements for Kool cigarettes. Heinecken has added a man standing behind the woman in the ad who sits on the word "KOOL," both with cigarette in hand. He has also added, perhaps as an ironical reference to his project, the word "all" to the slogan so that it reads: All / this is KOOL / no doubt about it.
Pencil annotation on verso: GAP magazine / #4 (of 5) / Heinecken 1994-1999. Chris Pichler received this copy of GAP/NY Headaches from Robert Heinecken when the two men were collaborating on the ...wore khakis project.
Arrangement
In orginal order.
Acquisition information
Acquired in 2017.
Preferred Citation
Revised magazine: Gap/NY headaches, between 1994 and 1999, The Getty Research Institute, accession no. 2017.M.30.
box
Box2017.M.30.bx1 Revised Magazine GAP/NY Headaches


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